DIY
How to French Polish: 5 Easy Steps for Beginners
How to French Polish: 5 Easy Steps for Beginners
French polishing is a traditional method for finishing furniture, widely used on
antique pieces. It involves applying a series of fine shellac coats to create a
high-gloss finish, enhancing the wood’s appearance and durability.
While French polishing was once the standard finish, modern finishes like
cellulose lacquer and polyurethane lacquers are now more common for everyday
furniture. Below, I’ll walk you through a classic French polish, but these steps
can be adapted for other types of finish.
Can beginners French polish?
With patience and practice, French polishing is very achievable for beginners.
Timber is forgiving and mistakes in staining or polishing can usually be
reversed by washing or sanding, without any permanent damage.
French polishing requires a little bit of knowledge and a lot of practice. I’ve
been French polishing for 30 years, and I’m still learning new ways of doing
things!
Expert tip: Practising the techniques on spare wood pieces can help build your
confidence before tackling larger furniture projects.
Materials needed
Sandpaper (A range between 320-120 grit)
Cloth for wiping
Methylated spirit
Your preferred stain
Painters or polishers rag (2 pieces)
Shellac-based sealer
Flat brush or polishing mop
Sanding sponge (optional)
French polish
Mutton cloth
Ultra-fine wire wool, grade 0000 (optional)
Finishing wax (optional)
White spirit (optional)
Microfibre cloth (optional)
Gloves (Nitrile Gloves – Latex Free)
Other PPE (Mask, Eye Protection)
Step-by-step guide to French polishing
Prepare the wood
Preparation is key. If you get your preparation correct, everything after that
becomes a lot easier.
Sand by working your way through the grades of paper. For new timber, begin with
coarse sandpaper (120-grit) and work up to fine grades (320-grit). If the wood
is already finely sanded, you can start with 240-320-grit.
Afterwards, wipe it down with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit. This
removes any oils or contaminants.
Staining
You can get stains from most DIY stores or finishing companies like Morrells or
Mylands.
Choose your stain type. There are different types of stains, such as water
stains, light fast stains or oil stains. I tend to use oil stains as they’re the
easiest to use, and you can buy them in pre-mixed colours.
Test the stain. Try the colour in a small area first. I recommend doing this on
the underside or somewhere it won’t be obvious.
Apply the stain. Once you’re happy with the colour, you’ll need two pieces of
polishers or painters rag (you can get this from a DIY shop like Leyland SDM or
B&Q). To apply, wet one rag with the stain and wipe it over the wood, making
sure you get into all the corners. With the other dry piece of rag, wipe off any
excess stain immediately to keep it even.
Allow stains to dry thoroughly. Check the drying time on the label. It’s usually
a minimum of two hours. I recommend waiting the full time to prevent any
bleeding through.
Expert tip: Another benefit of oil stains is that you can overlap and it won’t
go darker. This is particularly useful for larger areas, as you don’t need to
stain the wood in one go.
Sealing
After the initial drying stage, I like to use a shellac-based sealer. The sealer
helps build up the wood grain and seal any contaminants. This is typically
applied with a high-quality flat brush or polishing mop.
Apply a generous first coat and leave it to dry for about 30 minutes.
After, apply a second coat to ensure a solid base. This initial build-up helps
prevent sanding through the colour of the wood.
Once dry, give it a light sand with 320-grit paper. Sanding sponges are useful
for following curved contours (such as table legs) without damaging the finish.
Expert tip: If you’re using another finish, like a cellulose lacquer, all of the
steps up until now are the same. Simply apply the alternative finish in the next
step according to the instructions on the tin.
Building layers
Now it’s time to build those fine layers of French polish. You don’t want to
apply heavy coats or it’ll become sticky.
Ball up a piece of mutton cloth in your hand. Tuck in the corners so it’s nice
and flat, then dip it in the French polish. You want it so it’s saturated but
not dripping.
Run this lightly up and down along the wood grain to apply a thin, even layer of
polish. Let it dry for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then apply another coat.
Apply the polish in multiple rounds, letting each layer dry slightly before the
next. This builds up a smooth, even finish.
Let it rest and sink into the wood grain. After 15-20 minutes of layering, give
it an hour’s rest.
Sand lightly. Paper down with a bit of 320-grit paper. You’re not trying to cut
it back; you’re just trying to denib it.
Go again. Repeat these steps until you get your desired finish.
The more you repeat the steps above, the more you’ll close the grain of the
timber. For a natural finish, you may not want too much. For a full French
polish, keep going until you’ve created the desired level of gloss.
Finishing touches (optional)
If you love how the finish looks at the end of the previous step, you can stop
there. However, to bring the shine down slightly, you can use wire and wax for a
softer finish. This process can be used on any finish.
Softening the sheen with wire wool and wax
Make 2 pads of ultra-fine wire wool (grade 0000). Rip off a half-metre length
and fold it in on itself to make a cushioned pad about the size of your hand.
Put a little bit of finishing wax on the wire wool. Lightly move the pad over
the surface with the grain. You’re almost floating this over to micro-scratch
the surface. Lubricate it with a tiny bit of white spirit if the wire wool
grips.
Buff: Use a second dry piece of wire wool to clean it off, remove the wax, and
even everything out.
Lastly, wipe over with a microfibre cloth. And you’re finished!
Disposing in an Environmentally Friendly manner
Disposing the correct legal way requires due diligence. Information can always
be found on your local authority website on how, where and when to dispose of
chemicals or anything chemical related.
How to look after French-polished furniture
With moderate use, a good French polish will last 10-12 years. With no use,
it’ll last forever. Even so, these maintenance tips can keep your hard work
looking its best.
Cleaning: Avoid regular use of furniture polish sprays like Pledge. Instead, use
a damp cloth with a little bit of washing-up liquid every month.
Refreshing the finish: You can apply a beeswax polish to restore the sheen and
remove minor surface marks.
If the finish gets accidentally scratched or gauged, stay tuned for my next
article on how to repair scratches on wood for useful DIY tips on making
repairs.
Choosing the right finish for different applications
In my opinion, French polish is the most beautiful finish. But unless you’re
working on an antique, it may not be the right choice for your project. Here are
a few ways to help you decide which finish is right for you.
Durability
French polish is great for low-traffic furniture like occasion tables or
decorative pieces. However, for high-traffic areas like desks, everyday dining
tables, or stair handrails, you’d be better off with a harder lacquer or
polyurethane finish, as they withstand wear better.
Wood type
All timbers can be French polished, but different timbers take on stains
differently.
Softwoods (e.g., pine): These absorb stains deeply. It’s better to keep staining
light, as the darker you go, the patchier it tends to look.
to sand.
Veneers: These can be treated exactly the same as solid wood. However, you
should sand lightly to avoid going through the thin veneer layer.
Modern alternatives to French polish
If French polish isn’t right for your project, there are other finishes to
choose from. Most of my step-by-step guide above still applies, you’ll just be
working with a different finish in step 4.
Here are the most popular alternatives to consider:
Wax finishes: These offer a more natural look but are less durable than lacquer
or polish.
Cellulose lacquers: These dry quickly and have a hard finish.
Polyurethane lacquers: These are highly durable and often used on high-traffic
furniture.
Acid catalyst lacquers: These are extremely resilient but require professional
application.
When should I call in the experts?
While finishing wood can be achieved by beginners, there may be instances where
you need help from someone with experience. For example:
Choosing one of the hardest finishes, like polyester. These have acid catalysts
and need to be sprayed by a professional who can also ensure proper ventilation.
Fixing certain mistakes. For most water damage, I’d get a professional in. It’s
hard to know how far down the damage has gone, and it’s easy to make it worse.
Some mistakes, like white rings, you can try to fix yourself first with wire
wool, but it’s not for the faint-hearted!
Fixing deep gouges. It’s possible to repair minor scratches yourself, but for
deep gouges, you’ll need experienced help.
Most professionals are also available to ask for advice, especially for damages.
So if you’re unsure, it’s worth reaching out.
Hardwoods (e.g., oak): These are generally easier to polish but may be
challenging
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