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How to French Polish: 5 Easy Steps for Beginners French polishing is a traditional method for finishing furniture, widely used on antique pieces. It involves applying a series of fine shellac coats to create a high-gloss finish, enhancing the wood’s appearance and durability. While French polishing was once the standard finish, modern finishes like cellulose lacquer and polyurethane lacquers are now more common for everyday furniture. Below, I’ll walk you through a classic French polish, but these steps can be adapted for other types of finish. Can beginners French polish? With patience and practice, French polishing is very achievable for beginners. Timber is forgiving and mistakes in staining or polishing can usually be reversed by washing or sanding, without any permanent damage. French polishing requires a little bit of knowledge and a lot of practice. I’ve been French polishing for 30 years, and I’m still learning new ways of doing things! Expert tip: Practising the techniques on spare wood pieces can help build your confidence before tackling larger furniture projects. Materials needed Sandpaper (A range between 320-120 grit) Cloth for wiping Methylated spirit Your preferred stain Painters or polishers rag (2 pieces) Shellac-based sealer Flat brush or polishing mop Sanding sponge (optional) French polish Mutton cloth Ultra-fine wire wool, grade 0000 (optional) Finishing wax (optional) White spirit (optional) Microfibre cloth (optional) Gloves (Nitrile Gloves – Latex Free) Other PPE (Mask, Eye Protection) Step-by-step guide to French polishing Prepare the wood Preparation is key. If you get your preparation correct, everything after that becomes a lot easier. Sand by working your way through the grades of paper. For new timber, begin with coarse sandpaper (120-grit) and work up to fine grades (320-grit). If the wood is already finely sanded, you can start with 240-320-grit. Afterwards, wipe it down with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit. This removes any oils or contaminants. Staining You can get stains from most DIY stores or finishing companies like Morrells or Mylands. Choose your stain type. There are different types of stains, such as water stains, light fast stains or oil stains. I tend to use oil stains as they’re the easiest to use, and you can buy them in pre-mixed colours. Test the stain. Try the colour in a small area first. I recommend doing this on the underside or somewhere it won’t be obvious. Apply the stain. Once you’re happy with the colour, you’ll need two pieces of polishers or painters rag (you can get this from a DIY shop like Leyland SDM or B&Q). To apply, wet one rag with the stain and wipe it over the wood, making sure you get into all the corners. With the other dry piece of rag, wipe off any excess stain immediately to keep it even. Allow stains to dry thoroughly. Check the drying time on the label. It’s usually a minimum of two hours. I recommend waiting the full time to prevent any bleeding through. Expert tip: Another benefit of oil stains is that you can overlap and it won’t go darker. This is particularly useful for larger areas, as you don’t need to stain the wood in one go. Sealing After the initial drying stage, I like to use a shellac-based sealer. The sealer helps build up the wood grain and seal any contaminants. This is typically applied with a high-quality flat brush or polishing mop. Apply a generous first coat and leave it to dry for about 30 minutes. After, apply a second coat to ensure a solid base. This initial build-up helps prevent sanding through the colour of the wood. Once dry, give it a light sand with 320-grit paper. Sanding sponges are useful for following curved contours (such as table legs) without damaging the finish. Expert tip: If you’re using another finish, like a cellulose lacquer, all of the steps up until now are the same. Simply apply the alternative finish in the next step according to the instructions on the tin. Building layers Now it’s time to build those fine layers of French polish. You don’t want to apply heavy coats or it’ll become sticky. Ball up a piece of mutton cloth in your hand. Tuck in the corners so it’s nice and flat, then dip it in the French polish. You want it so it’s saturated but not dripping. Run this lightly up and down along the wood grain to apply a thin, even layer of polish. Let it dry for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then apply another coat. Apply the polish in multiple rounds, letting each layer dry slightly before the next. This builds up a smooth, even finish. Let it rest and sink into the wood grain. After 15-20 minutes of layering, give it an hour’s rest. Sand lightly. Paper down with a bit of 320-grit paper. You’re not trying to cut it back; you’re just trying to denib it. Go again. Repeat these steps until you get your desired finish. The more you repeat the steps above, the more you’ll close the grain of the timber. For a natural finish, you may not want too much. For a full French polish, keep going until you’ve created the desired level of gloss. Finishing touches (optional) If you love how the finish looks at the end of the previous step, you can stop there. However, to bring the shine down slightly, you can use wire and wax for a softer finish. This process can be used on any finish. Softening the sheen with wire wool and wax Make 2 pads of ultra-fine wire wool (grade 0000). Rip off a half-metre length and fold it in on itself to make a cushioned pad about the size of your hand. Put a little bit of finishing wax on the wire wool. Lightly move the pad over the surface with the grain. You’re almost floating this over to micro-scratch the surface. Lubricate it with a tiny bit of white spirit if the wire wool grips. Buff: Use a second dry piece of wire wool to clean it off, remove the wax, and even everything out. Lastly, wipe over with a microfibre cloth. And you’re finished! Disposing in an Environmentally Friendly manner Disposing the correct legal way requires due diligence. Information can always be found on your local authority website on how, where and when to dispose of chemicals or anything chemical related. How to look after French-polished furniture With moderate use, a good French polish will last 10-12 years. With no use, it’ll last forever. Even so, these maintenance tips can keep your hard work looking its best. Cleaning: Avoid regular use of furniture polish sprays like Pledge. Instead, use a damp cloth with a little bit of washing-up liquid every month. Refreshing the finish: You can apply a beeswax polish to restore the sheen and remove minor surface marks. If the finish gets accidentally scratched or gauged, stay tuned for my next article on how to repair scratches on wood for useful DIY tips on making repairs. Choosing the right finish for different applications In my opinion, French polish is the most beautiful finish. But unless you’re working on an antique, it may not be the right choice for your project. Here are a few ways to help you decide which finish is right for you. Durability French polish is great for low-traffic furniture like occasion tables or decorative pieces. However, for high-traffic areas like desks, everyday dining tables, or stair handrails, you’d be better off with a harder lacquer or polyurethane finish, as they withstand wear better. Wood type All timbers can be French polished, but different timbers take on stains differently. Softwoods (e.g., pine): These absorb stains deeply. It’s better to keep staining light, as the darker you go, the patchier it tends to look. to sand. Veneers: These can be treated exactly the same as solid wood. However, you should sand lightly to avoid going through the thin veneer layer. Modern alternatives to French polish If French polish isn’t right for your project, there are other finishes to choose from. Most of my step-by-step guide above still applies, you’ll just be working with a different finish in step 4. Here are the most popular alternatives to consider: Wax finishes: These offer a more natural look but are less durable than lacquer or polish. Cellulose lacquers: These dry quickly and have a hard finish. Polyurethane lacquers: These are highly durable and often used on high-traffic furniture. Acid catalyst lacquers: These are extremely resilient but require professional application. When should I call in the experts? While finishing wood can be achieved by beginners, there may be instances where you need help from someone with experience. For example: Choosing one of the hardest finishes, like polyester. These have acid catalysts and need to be sprayed by a professional who can also ensure proper ventilation. Fixing certain mistakes. For most water damage, I’d get a professional in. It’s hard to know how far down the damage has gone, and it’s easy to make it worse. Some mistakes, like white rings, you can try to fix yourself first with wire wool, but it’s not for the faint-hearted! Fixing deep gouges. It’s possible to repair minor scratches yourself, but for deep gouges, you’ll need experienced help. Most professionals are also available to ask for advice, especially for damages. So if you’re unsure, it’s worth reaching out. Hardwoods (e.g., oak): These are generally easier to polish but may be challenging Ready to Sell? List Your Restored Furniture on BuildingSpares Got a piece worth worth saving? List your restored finds in our Furniture section today. Engage with ID verified buyers locally and nationally. Negotiate your price and set up delivery terms, hassle free.